![]() You wouldn’t want to try driving them into a century-old walnut stud, but then you’d probably bend a steel nail too. Aluminum nails are hardened to mimic steel. Remember that the Alcoa Building in Chicago, a historic landmark, is built entirely of structural aluminum. Maximum Aluminumīecause they’re relatively inexpensive, you’ll find aluminum nails at big-box home centers, but that doesn’t mean they’re lightweights in the construction industry. In the presence of a little moisture, the two metals set up a battery-like galvanic reaction that corrodes the metals quickly. (The preservatives incorporate salts that react with the zinc.)Īlso, never use galvanized nails with copper flashing. Nail manufacturers recommend that you go with aluminum or stainless steel fasteners when you’re using either of these woods-and whenever you’re using pressure-treated wood. However, the zinc in galvanized nails reacts chemically with cedar and redwood. Galvanized siding nails are good replacements for original, rusted siding nails if the siding is pine or Douglas. These nails have a narrow shank, but a conveniently large head. Soffit nails won’t split thin materials such as beadboard, which frequently covers the eave soffits and porch ceilings of old houses. You can buy galvanized soffit nails, too-short and easy to handle when you’re nailing above your head. This feature is especially useful around windows and doors, where you want the trim and jambs to remain absolutely square. The head of a casing nail is slightly larger than the head of a standard finish nail, and it holds better. I’ve used them for years when I install window or exterior doorway trim. Galvanized casing nails in 8d and 16d lengths are also part of the carpenter’s nail bag. Use short, stubby galvanized nails (about $2.65 per box for 8d x 1) to anchor your joist hangers. Electro-coated nails are cheaper, but the galvanizing is visibly thinner.īuilding the substructure of a porch is a typical job for galvanized nails. The most durable versions are hot-dipped (labeled HD) because they’re coated with molten zinc. Eventually, even galvanized nails rust, but the process takes longer. Like the proverbial sacrificial lamb, the zinc corrodes first, sparing the steel. Galvanizing stems the corrosion process by protecting steel nails in a coating of zinc. ![]() ![]() Near the coast, salty air speeds up the process. Then the nail’s iron ions, which have lost their electrons, react with water to form iron oxide solids, the rust that you see. In the presence of water, steel gives up electrons to oxygen in the air. Nails exposed to weather will always be vulnerable to corrosion-the product of a chemical reaction called oxidation-reduction. If you’re planning outdoor repair jobs, or the construction of new steps, porches, and fencing, start by buying a box of galvanized, aluminum, or stainless steel nails. Paint won’t prevent rust either in a couple of years the rusty nail head will bleed through the topcoat. ![]() All steel nails exposed to moisture eventually rust. Don’t just grab any nail, though, even if you expect it will never see rain. ![]() When the sky turns blue, it’s tempting to grab a handful of nails and tackle those outdoor repair jobs that have languished during the cold weather-be they loose soffit boards where squirrels invaded the attic or buckled siding that’s ready for repainting. Stainless steel siding nails won’t corrode when exposed to weather. ![]()
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